Conditions Are Ripe

Northwest Florida lays claim to its first olive grove

By Lee Gordon

Growing olives in Florida seems about as likely as growing oranges in Alaska.

To find a farmer that produces olives in the Sunshine State used to be difficult if not impossible. That was, at least, until Don Mueller came into the picture. He’s a rare breed, especially in Northwest Florida.

“As far as I know, I’m the only one in the state that produces table olives and olive oil from olives growing in Florida,” said the Jackson County farmer. “Some sell olive oil but it is imported.”

To grow olives, you need more than just a green thumb. You need the right topography, soil with a pH level of 7.5 or higher and temperatures that are hot enough to grow the fruit. But you also need a winter chill to make sure the olives set in place. These conditions are normal in California and Italy — but not as much in Florida.

“Soil type and topography are very important as to whether you will be successful in the Panhandle in growing olive trees,” Mueller said. “You need elevation, slope and good drainage. It doesn’t work everywhere.”

According to the Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations, the United States ranked 22nd in olive oil production in 2007, producing 1,500 tons, most of it from California. Spain was No. 1 on the list, producing 1.3 million tons — or 42 percent of the world total. Florida didn’t even register as a blip.

Awakening a farmer’s DNA

In 1999, Mueller and his wife moved from Europe to retire in North Florida. Originally, they set out to live a life of leisure on the water. But he quickly grew tired of fishing and boating, and thought about jumping head first into the olive jar. So the Muellers bought five acres of land and called it Green Gate Olive Grove, a taste of Italy in North Florida near Compass Lake in Jackson County.

“I was employed in Europe for eight years and we vacationed in Italy and I became interested in olives,” Mueller said, “I learned a lot from the olive growers in Italy about how to grow olives.”

The former natural gas consultant gave up the “retired” lifestyle and went back to work. He knew the challenges of growing olives in North Florida. There was nothing to pattern his grove off of because not many people had done it successfully.

“When I began, I got a lot of negative comments from the Agriculture Department. (They) said I was an idiot to grow olives in Florida,” Mueller said. But he was determined. “I’ve had farmer’s DNA all my life. I enjoy growing things but I was attracted to olives because of the ambience and the culture that goes along with it.”

What started out as an experiment has turned into a full-fledged business. Mueller knew that the weather in North Florida was similar to the Mediterranean, so he called upon his knowledge of what he learned in Italy and applied it to his olive grove. His work hasn’t gone unnoticed. In 2008, he won an award at an international contest in Ft. Lauderdale. His olive oil went up against oil from all over the world — and won the award for its taste.

That victory put the Jackson County farmer on the olive map so-to-speak, and turned his project into a job that, by his own admission, takes up most of his time.

“The way I’m doing it is the way they have done it in Italy for the last 1,000 to 1,500 years. The spacing and the layout is an Italian method,” he said. As for profits, he added, “Doing it the way I do it is better than break even, but it’s not wildly lucrative.”

Mueller has 350 trees on his five-acre property. The olive trees produce three tons of fruit per acre. His trees are spaced 20 feet apart in all directions. The reason for the spacing is that olive trees grow to that size, and spacing them apart will keep them from overlapping.

Looking back on his project, he said, “It was just an experiment to begin with. I love olives and was anxious to try it and it worked.”

An olive tree grows in Florida …and Georgia

Mueller is now lobbying the state of Florida to jump on the olive bandwagon. Just recently, he petitioned the state of Florida and the Department of Agriculture to introduce olive trees across the northern border of the Sunshine State. According to the Florida Department of Agriculture, this proposal was submitted as part of the Specialty Crop Block Grant program. The Department is still reviewing these proposals individually and has not yet determined which programs will receive funding.

“The project would include an analysis of topography of all the counties and point out the ideal sites for where olives can be grown,” Mueller said, “We would supply four trees to each county through the extension agents and make sure the trees are planted. The only variable would be rainfall and temperature.”

Adam Putnam, Florida’s agriculture commissioner, concedes the idea is not without merit.

“Florida’s rich soil, bright sunshine and an almost year-round growing season make our state an ideal location for expanding crop varieties,” Putnam said. “With nearly 300 commodities already grown in Florida, the budding olive industry represents another way growers are exploring new crops to strengthen one of Florida’s strongest economic pillars.”

But Mueller isn’t stopping in Florida. He’s also helped horticulturists in Georgia get involved. He says that growing olives the way they do in the Peach State is the optimal way to cash in on the fruit.

“If you want to make money growing olives you have to do it the way the people in Georgia have undertaken it,” Mueller said, adding that the state is helping to underwrite the experiment and it has support from the University of Georgia.

“People in Georgia have acquainted themselves with experts and consultants. I’ve helped them. I’m an honorary member of the Georgia Olive Growers Association because of the help I gave them,” he said.

While he works on the Department of Agriculture in Florida and helps his friends to the north, there’s also some business on the farm to take care of. Mueller said his olives and olive oil have become well enough known in a four-to-five county area in North Florida that people drive for miles just to pick up his product.  Business is especially good at the end of August when the “U-Pick” season begins.

“The people who buy the olives and the oil are fans of olives and olive oil,” Mueller said, “They do not want the olives picked for them, they want to do their own picking. I have a ‘you pick’ season that basically kicks off the harvest season after the olives ripen.”

And sometimes, his customers pick up a few trees to see if they can duplicate what Mueller has done. But only the Ascolana and Mission trees are for sale.

“Other people have stuck their toe in the water, so to speak. Some are my customers,” Mueller said, “I propagate my trees and sell them. Some have been successful and some have not. It doesn’t work everywhere.”

And not everyone is making an honest living growing olives. Researchers at the University of California-Davis recently completed a study showing that many extra virgin olive oils aren’t what they seem. The first of its kind study showed that 69 percent of the imported oils sampled failed to meet internationally accepted standards for extra virgin oil.

“As a result of that report, there is an increasing demand for extra virgin olive oil because that commands a significantly higher price than regular olive oil,” Mueller said.  “It’s had an affect on my business, but I’ve never had a problem selling my olive oil.”

Types of olives that can grow in florida

Arbequina: The olives grow in heavy clusters and have a high oil content.

Arbosana: Has fruit that looks almost like the arbequina but matures three weeks later. Arbosana oil is more robust than Arbequina and has a more peppery taste. It has a fruity, nutty flavor.

Koroneiki: A very small olive that originated in Greece and is grown for its oil. It has a robust flavor and a peppery finish.

Mission: Has a high oil content. Olives ripen mid-season. Oil can be bitter if picked early. Mission is considered mid-season.

Manzanilla: The most widely grown variety in the world and has a very high quality. The oil is described as very aromatic, fruity and peppery.

Source: Florida Olive Council

Stats from Green Gate Olive Grove

» Olive Production: 3-7 tons per acre.

» A half liter of olive oil runs $23 while a pint of fresh olives goes for $10.

» A 30-foot tree costs between $10 and $25 and could grow to 40 feet.

» Olive trees can live for 200-500 years.

» 40 gallons of olive oil can be produced per ton of olives.

» Mueller has approximately 300 trees on his farm, hopes to have 500 in the near future.

(Courtesy: Don Mueller and www.greengateolivegrove.com)